The next day the landscape changed dramatically as we travelled into the highlands of Chiapas. Driving at sunset we were able to see the brilliance of the red rocks in the mountains, illuminated by the departing sun.
On our way to San Cristobal de Las Casas we stopped at the side of the road for food. The pescado frito (fried fish) was INCREDIBLE. The area is fascinating, there are the bluest rivers and the grandest trees. People are not as used to tourists and people would ask to take pictures with us.
San Cristobal de Las Casas is a gorgeous town that I could definitely live in. The colorful houses are settled in the mountains and the streets are lively with vendors, musicians, and dancers. Our favorite place was Cafe Revolucion, where live music plays every night. We danced to live salsa music and when the band was finished went across the street for live reggae. Amazing! Despite all the available activities the town is incredibly tranquil, only open to tourism a few years ago. Also the area is where the Zapatista movement in Mexico started in 1994 when San Cristobal was taken over by Zapatists.
During the day we visited the nearby pueblos of San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan. These are indigenous villages that have become tourist attractions as of the past few years. They are in an interesting place given this transition of maintaining traditional with incorporating tourism. The people of San Juan Chamula have come together to forbid taking pictures there. This is not enforced by Mexican police because the town voted against having them, instead it is enforced by local town members.
The church in San Juan Chamula is incredible. It has no pews, instead a tile floor with scattered pines filing the church with an earthy scent. Altars are all around and families come to church together to sit on the floor. They bring chickens to sacrifice and it is common to see people eating or drinking together (yes, even alcohol). When we walked in a three man band was playing upbeat music as the families lit hundreds of candles, illuminating the inside of the church while sending a blessing to the heavens. The church is a fusion of Maya beliefs and Catholicism brought over by the Spaniards.
While we were there carnaval was going on and many people were dressed in ornate costumes dancing traditional dances, not for tourists, but for themselves. Visiting these offset towns in the mountains was truly a spiritual experience I am so glad to have, but I cannot help but feel a bit guilty for contributing to the zoo-like tourism that is taking over the towns, visiting to look at the "different" people. I wonder what they will be like in 15-20 years as Lonely Planet and others start picking up more on them.
Back in San Cristobal we saw this set of stairs during a morning walk. We knew we had to get to the top, so with very labored breathing we climbed our way up.
The view was totally worth it.
Driving out of Chiapas we were in the clouds, presenting a mystic fog for the one of a kind trip.
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